Gitane: Sexy, sophisticated gypsy food. Really.

By Molly Freedenberg

To take a page from Dani Leone's book, I have a new favorite restaurant. It's Gitane, opened by the same people who brought us Cafe Claude, and it's fantastic. Of course, I might be a bit biased. The name "Gitane" means "gypsy woman," and indeed, the restaurant's interior and menu was designed with gypsy culture in mind. Having been told my whole life that I'm descended from gypsies and horse thieves (on Mom's side, from the Slavias), I felt a kinship with this place before I'd set foot inside the deceptively small building. Plus, in a town brimming with neuvo Californian, Asian fusion, Pan-American, and upscale Southern cuisines, there was simply something refreshing about someone doing something I'd never heard of before.

So several weeks after the eatery's grand opening, I scooped up a friend with a sophisticated palate and a sense of adventure and headed downtown. We knew not to expect some kitschy regurgitation of gypsy stereotypes, but we had no idea we'd find a place so eclectic, classy, interesting, and sexy. We fell in love with the bar area, a narrow corridor with dark patterned walls and reflective ceiling, giving the illusion of great amounts of space without sacrificing a sense of intimacy and warmth. Our bartender was fantastically helpful and friendly (not to mention cute cute cute), and seemed to be a true lover of cocktails. The bar's signature drink, The Gypsy, was a delightful twist on the St. Germain's elderflower trend - a light, subtly sweet, complex concoction with an herb-y finish and easy drinkability. My companion ordered the 1862, named for the year of the Cinco de Mayo massacre after its primary ingredient (tequila) and made ambitiously interesting by the addition of Campari. It was suggested as an apperitif, and though it was far too bitter and biting for both of us, would probably delight dedicated Campari fans.

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